Beyond nose to tail

At the FT, Rowley Leigh and Fergus Henderson have a delightful conversation about cookery. A snippet:

RL: The one person I come back to and always use as a really reliable metronome of good taste and proper English cooking is Eliza Acton and I just think she has perfect pitch: “Take a wild duck, put him on a brisk fire, serve him up with a little orange salad and watercress,” you know, that sort of language of cookery, which is exactly what you want.