"Too much traffic"
An interesting aside: Ottolenghi, the owner of the restaurant where the lunch took place, is a fabulous Israeli chef, and I recommend both his cookbooks and his regular column in The Guardian. I don't know why FT didn't link to his column - competition? - but I read it almost as avidly as Hollinghurst's fiction itself. And it doesn't surprise me at all that Hollinghurst would eat there.Here's the link to Ottolenghi's new series:http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/series/yotam-ottolenghi-recipesAnd his old one:http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/series/thenewvegetarian